I was very honoured this morning to be able to partake in a small Remembrance Day ceremony at the AMIS Compound (African Mission in Sudan). There were several African Military contingents there all displaying a red poppy on their uniform. They looked so sharp in their dark green uniforms and the poppy was the prefect contrast. I was asked to assist our Canadian Military partners in laying the Canadian wreath. A blue UN helmet was lying at the foot of the memorial site and was guarded by a group of men from the African military. It was at that moment that I said to myself, “I am really here”. I was so proud to be a part of this event and something that I will remember for a very long time.
It has been 12 days since my last post so I will try and bring you up to date. I am very lucky as far as accommodations go. It is no Hilton or even a Super Eight Motel but I am calling it home. We are in a camp called Zam Zam. The Canadian Forces (CF) was here before and they have set it up. Zam Zam is a fairly large compound and we have 24/7 military protection. It is surrounded by an earth berm, fencing and razor wire and there are manned guard towers at every corner and the gate. I am still doing a lot of running however I have lost my old running partner Mohamed and have found a new running partner from Egypt who is also called Mohamed. He is a Major with the Egyptian Military and has been very helpful in showing me the ropes around this place. The other day I went to open my bank account and they told me that they had no more account numbers. Luckily Mohamed was with me, spoke to the teller and all of a sudden I had an account number instantly appear. I have wanted to take Arabic lessons but it is a bit difficult when I have a curfew of 7pm and cannot get to the Super Camp. So Mohamed has offered to teach me. He is pretty regimented when it comes to his lessons (he even gives me exams). I will be honest…I am not a very good student. This is not an easy language to learn. I am sure I will pick up quite a few words by the time I get home.
As I mentioned before we are very fortunate to have our accommodations with the CF. I have gotten to know a wonderful group of Fijian policemen and one policewoman. They are living in a large tent on cots (about 20 to a tent). They have 2 small window type air conditioners and no mosquito nets. I have a feeling they don’t get much sleep due to the large amount of snoring. They have no washing machines so laundry is done in a bucket. A single burner hot plate is on the ground outside the tent and serves as their kitchen. We could have been in this situation.
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Not very big is it? I could have been living in this tent when I first arrived These are some of the tents that my co-workers have been living in...did I mention that there are no air conditioners This is my co-worker, Vincent Traore (Burkina Faso), showing me his tent that he shares with two other officers. |
It is desert here so the ground is covered with fine reddish brown sand and rocks. The vegetation is sparse. There is always dust in the air. There are mountains to our west but you usually can’t see them due to the dust. They have something called a “Haboob” here which is a sand/dust storm like you saw in the movie “Raiders of the Lost Ark.” If you see it coming it’s a massive wall of sand-dust and we have been told to take cover. If you are driving you must pull over and can be waiting up to several hours for it to subside. I have yet to experience one.
I'm sure I mentioned the dust but did I mention the plastic bags? They litter the ground and blow in the breeze like falling maple leaves in the fall. It brightens up the sky and they come in all sorts of colours. Even the animals consider plastic bags a snack. I am not kidding….they eat anything and everything. I always catch the goats and cows chewing on plastic bags and cardboard. Nobody picks up anything. If it falls or is discarded on the ground it remains there. Every one walks over it or around it. There are some exceptions; like the plastic water bottles. Apparently there are many household uses for these so you rarely see any lying about. If it breaks down it is often left where it breaks and anything useful from whatever it is, is removed and used.
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This is what we drive by every day. As you can see the garbage and plastic bags are scattered everywhere and the animals eat whatever they can find. |
The women are very industrious. There are always on their donkeys loaded down with all their firewood that they have collected that day from hours away. The buses and trucks are piled high with people and goods. It's amazing how much they can load on to vehicles, carts, animals and people! There are no safety standards or highway traffic rules and it looks quite dangerous to see a bus full of people, piled high on top with luggage and furniture, etc. and then more people perched on top of that. And all this on very rough dirt roads while weaving through herds of camels, sheep, goats, cows and avoiding the donkey and cart riders and children. I call these buses “the Partridge Family Buses”. Some of them are painted in bright colours and look very free spirited. And of course all this activity keeps the dust in the air.
I have been given my posting and I am going to be working under the Executive Officer as an Audit and Inspections Officer. What does that mean? I will be travelling to all the team sites in Darfur to conduct inspections. This should give me a good opportunity to see the region and to see what is going on all over Darfur. I may have to stay in these areas for a few days at a time. I am sure I will experience some of these wonderful living conditions that other countries are telling me about.
I want to thank everyone who has sent me comments on my blog or on my email. It means a lot and it is wonderful to hear how everything is going back in Canada. I miss all of you.
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This is a photo from my office. As you can see we all work out of prefabricated containers. |
I want to thank everyone who has sent me comments on my blog or on my email. It means a lot and it is wonderful to hear how everything is going back in Canada. I miss all of you.




















Sounds amazing, Clare! I was thinking about you yesterday, wondering what Nov. 11th would be like over there. Sounds incredibly special. Stay safe and know we are always thinking of you!
ReplyDeleteHi Claire,
ReplyDeleteThanks for the update. Remy is away hunting this weekend so hasn't seen it but I will make sure he does when he returns. You'll get a kick out of this..... he is hunting with Ted Morten, the finance minister, and Barry Cooper, A political scientist prof from the U of C. All the nerdy intellectuals are out hunting and gathering for the women folk back home!
The weather here is getting cooler but every once in awhile it warms up enough that we don't need a jacket. That is when I am happy to live here and I somehow forget about the nasty summer we just suffered through.
It is supposed to snow in the next 4 days or so! What are the temps like there? If it's really hot I bet that makes running a chore. Do you just run circles around the compound?
We are getting ready for our trip to Argentina and Chile. Reading and anticipating. We'll send you the link to our blog once it is ready.
Stay safe,
Liz and the gang
So good to read your posts.. we miss you too ! I was in Vancouver a few wks ago and my mom & I got together with John & Caroline for lunch @ Joeys, Broadway - of course :) It was great see them AND John is coming to Calgary tomorrow for work (2 nts) & staying with us -- he always works such long days so we don't see much of him but it's great just the same !
ReplyDeleteThis is just the expedition you were looking for & a way to make a difference. I'm happy for you - take care of yourself though !
xoxo Stephanie & Ken
BTW - we were on a morning walk/hike in Bowmont Pk this a.m. with our Clever Canine's dog club and it was a GORGEOUS day - even better this afternoon ! We won tix to Cesar Milan and it was so great vecause we didn't learn anything new from him .... WE KNEW IT & WERE LIVING IT already!!! What an amazing feeling... we just felt grateful for Clever Canine's.
Do you miss not having your dog with you? You're obviously pretty busy and out of normal routine ... hopefully you'd miss Mike more -- ha! ha!
Hi Clare,
ReplyDeleteWell wasn't that an honor to you to assist in laying the Canadian wreath! WOW!
What a whole different culture you are experiencing over there. I could just see your expression the first time you saw a "Partridge Family" bus drive by!! Good to hear that Mohamed is teaching you some Arabic. PAY ATTENTION Missy!!
Well we got dumped with snow last nite (Monday). We awoke to 2 foot drifts on our deck and driveway this morning (and it's still snowing tonite). The temp plumeted to -12 this afternoon and it's going to stay cold for the next while.
It's great to read your blogs and the pics are great!
Take care - and keep your shades on in all that warm sunshine (you cool cat)!
Cheers!! :-)
Hi Clare,
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing your experiences with all of us and describing your environment so well! It certainly sounds like different world and an exciting set of challenges ahead.
This week Calgary is covered in a white blanket of snow; it's cold and most roads are a mess. No evidence yet of the promise of better snow removal!
I look forward to your next post and photos and a few words in Arabic...
Take good care and thinking of you!
Warm wishes,
Natalie (I'm using my husband's google account, Alan)
Ohh Clare - Where are you??
ReplyDeleteYou haven't blogged us in a while!!
:-o